Cross-warming of a frame house

Basic data for calculation

Logs are wooden or rectangular beams made of another material, which are laid on the floor of the room in order to level it and create a reliable support for the finishing flooring.

Basic information on logs and floor construction is presented in the article "Wooden floor on logs: DIY device". For the calculation, the following points are most important.

The dimensions of the premises and the planned mode of its operation.

The dimensions and purpose of the premises are important for determining the length of the span (the required length of the logs, solid or composite), their position and the choice of wood. For walk-through rooms or corridors, it is customary to place the frame across the direction of movement. Accordingly, you can use short lags.

In rooms with natural light, it is important to consider the direction of the light rays and their intensity. If the illumination is sufficient according to the norms of SNiP 23-05-2010, it is important to place the logs across the direction of the luminous flux. In this case, they will warm up (and deform, age under the influence of heating) evenly.

The choice of wood is influenced by the humidity in the room. For dry spaces, a tree of common conifers (spruce, pine, fir, smereka) is used, for wet spaces - larch. In especially critical cases, oak is used.

The type of support of the beams - on a solid base (screed, reinforced concrete slab or masonry), on adjustable or non-adjustable supports, along the perimeter of the room on the ledges of the foundation or grillage. The support of the lags is directly related to their location. When installing a floor over a floor of wooden or metal beams, the logs are attached directly to the beams.

If, at the same time, the distance between the floor logs does not meet the required one for the flooring (from the strength conditions), then a second layer is arranged on top of the first layer of beams, with the necessary step. In this case, leveling is performed for the first layer. On a solid base or ground, the logs are located according to strength standards.

The arrangement of the beams is only in one direction or along and across the room. The frame is arranged in the form of a lattice, if increased strength of the flooring is required or a "floating floor" is planned. In both cases, the connection of longitudinal and transverse beams increases not only strength, but also the rigidity of the structure, its resistance to deformation.

The section of the lag is selected depending on the thickness of the flooring board and the span. The greater the load and the longer the span, the larger the cross-section of the beam. The thicker the floorboard, the more you can increase the span and reduce the cross-section of the beams.

Insulation technology

Spraying is a fast and high-quality, but expensive way of insulating a wooden floor. It is applied to absolutely any surface, it is used in private houses, and in apartments, and in industrial premises. Polyurethane foam is sprayed after removing the old coating. At the same time, there must be appropriate equipment, without it the process is impossible.
Thermal insulation of a wooden floor is a responsible process that requires certain knowledge. It is important to choose the right material, since not everything that is good for a private house is suitable for insulation in an apartment. It is also important to correctly divide the warming process, especially if the installation is done by hand. Any mistake can lead to the fact that you have to redo the work done earlier.

Let's look at several options for how you can make do-it-yourself thermal insulation of wooden floors.

It is much more convenient to insulate the floor in a private house at the construction stage. But quite often this moment is missed and it is necessary to produce thermal insulation already during the operation of the building. To do this, you need to use the following technology of work:

  • First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old flooring. If you have linoleum, remove it carefully, it will still come in handy for waterproofing.
  • After that, the floorboards are removed. If they are in good condition, they should be numbered to facilitate re-assembly.
  • Then from below on the logs along the entire length cranial bars are stuffed, on which, in turn, the subfloor is laid. For its installation, you can use a non-edged board. Laying should be done as tightly as possible, and it is better to fill the remaining cracks with polyurethane foam.
  • The next step is the installation of waterproofing material. Here you can use old linoleum or dense polyethylene.
  • Heat-insulating material is laid on the waterproofing.

    Sectional double floor

  • The insulation must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier. Foamed polyethylene, which has a foil base, is best suited for this purpose.
  • The final stage is the installation of old or new boards, you can also use plywood. Insulated linoleum can be placed on plywood sheets, which will increase the level of thermal insulation and reduce the noise level from steps.

In the apartment, wooden floors are insulated using a similar technology. It is a little easier to make thermal insulation here, since there is already a subfloor, which is played by a concrete floor slab. The technology for insulating wooden floors in an apartment is made in the following order:

  • Just as in a private house, it is necessary to dismantle the flooring and boards.

    Thermal insulation of the floor with mineral wool on the logs on the first floor

  • Wooden logs are installed on a concrete base. The remnants of the old insulation between the logs must be removed, sweep away other debris.
  • After that, a layer of waterproofing is laid. In this capacity, you can use old linoleum, roofing felt or plastic wrap. It will be better if the beams are also covered with waterproofing so that they do not absorb moisture.

The timber frame structure is found not only in wooden houses, but also in many buildings built in the first half or middle of the 20th century. At that time, this was the most affordable way to quickly build a residential building. The characteristic features of such coatings are good thermal insulation properties.

In addition, the installation of logs is one of the effective options for creating a warm base in modern residential buildings, however, due to a decrease in the total height in the room, it is not always acceptable for standard apartments and houses.

  • In most cases, the logs are installed on a rough wooden base, thereby forming several separate cells on the surface. Those. the insulation will not be evenly distributed over the entire surface, but will only fill these zones. The difference between the heat transfer coefficients of the beams and the heat insulator can cause uneven temperature distribution on the surface.
  • The insulation material should not negatively affect the wooden structural elements.To a greater extent, this relates to its hydrophobicity - moisture absorption. Therefore, the technology of floor insulation along the logs provides for increased waterproofing measures.
  • Mandatory air gap. It is necessary for the timely removal of water vapor emitted by wood. To do this, provide for the presence of ventilation slots between the insulation and the upper base of the floor.

Given this specificity, you can start choosing the optimal insulation scheme. To do this, consider various options for the design of the insulating layer.

It is best to consider floor insulation along the logs visually, with options for installing various types of heat insulators. But first, you should carry out a number of preparatory work with a wooden structure.

Advice

If the thermal insulation layer will be installed in an old structure, a thorough revision of the wooden floor should be carried out.

During long-term use, wooden elements could be exposed to moisture or mold, which leads to a deterioration in their performance properties. Therefore, they are carefully checked and, as necessary, they carry out restoration work or a complete replacement. This procedure is not required when installing new floors.

After that, you can start installing the insulation. Regardless of its type, the subfloor is waterproofed first. Often it is also made of wooden planks, much less often you can find a subgrade. In the latter case, the beams are attached to the walls of the building and to the ground using special support structures.

At the end of the condition check, you can proceed with the installation of the thermal insulation layer. The general scheme is as follows.

  • Formation of an internal waterproofing layer. For this it is necessary to use special mixtures. It is best to process the base before its installation - in this way, you can ensure maximum impregnation with a waterproofing compound. Most often, bituminous mastic with the addition of polymer components is used for this. It is necessary to process both the outer and inner surface of the flooring.

The use of roll materials is not recommended. During use, a condensation film may form between the boards and the film, which will be absorbed by the wood. The reason for this phenomenon lies in the temperature difference between the plane of the foundation and the inner surface of the board. Often the dew point is located here, which leads to the appearance of condensation in winter.

  • Installing lag. If the supporting timber structures have not yet been installed, they must also be treated with a protective waterproofing material. During their installation, the optimal distance between the lags should be taken into account. It depends on the span width and the size of the beams to be installed.

If the installation takes place on a brick or concrete wall, you need to equip the place for connecting the lag and the supporting structures of the building. To do this, it is best to use a roll-up waterproofing material, such as roofing felt. Upon completion of the installation, you can proceed directly to the insulation.

  • Installation of thermal insulation. The choice of technology for installing insulation directly depends on its type. For roll materials (basalt wool), it is enough to spread the material on the surface of the subfloor. During work, it is important to minimize the size of the gaps between the layers. Due to the fact that the height of the lag is often 250 mm, several layers can be installed. It is recommended to develop the scheme in such a way that the joints of each subsequent one do not coincide with the previous one. This is required to prevent the appearance of so-called cold bridges - zones where the temperature will be significantly lower than in the main heat-insulating layer.

Read more: Types of air conditioners for an apartment comparative review and tips for choosing
Advice

For sheet material (polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam), it is not recommended to fix it with mounting dowels.Since individual insulating elements will be located between the beams, it is important to draw up a plan for their cutting correctly. When tightly docked with each other, an optimal energy saving factor will be ensured. The absence of mechanical stress contributes to the preservation of the primary layout of the insulation sheets.

If loose heat-insulating materials are used - expanded clay, you must first prepare the composition. To do this, mix components of different fractions (from 10 to 20 mm), and then evenly fill the space between the lags.

  • Ventilation gap. Before installing the main covering (boards or solid overlap), equip an air gap between it and the thermal insulation. It is better to install wooden slats on the surface of the beams for this. With their help, you can make ventilation voids necessary to remove moisture and level the finishing surface.

Insulated floor device

Tabular data

The analysis of statistics and calculations based on the data on the load capacity of coniferous wood (averaged) made it possible to compile a table of the distances between the logs, to derive the relationship between the thickness of the boards (slabs) of the flooring and the pitch of the support beams.

Important: if the permeability of the room is increased or the installation of heavy furniture (equipment) is planned, an amendment must be made. At the same time, the thickness of the floorboard increases, as does the cross-section of the beams, and the size between the lags decreases.

For flooring on a solid (reinforced concrete slab) foundation, the minimum allowable cross-section of the beams and the maximum distance between them are taken. When creating a flooring in a frame or wooden house, not only the payload on the flooring is taken into account, but also the own weight of the structure - beams, rough flooring, heat, sound and waterproofing, finishing.

Calculation 1.

Initial data - support on the floor slab along the base screed, with adjustable clamps (screw), under the laminate. The dimensions of the room are 3x5 m, the span is chosen 3 m (parallel to the wall with the window). Under the laminate, a rough plywood flooring of 20 mm is required.

According to the table, for such a thickness of the flooring (plywood), the lag step can be taken as 300 mm, and the section of the beam for a span of 3 m is 150x80 mm. The estimated amount x will be at a distance from the walls of 50 mm, a beam width of 80 mm and a lag step for plywood of 300 mm


5000 - 80x - 300 (x-1) - 100, x = 12.1 beams.

Since the number of lags cannot be whole, we take the number of beams 13 or - with a low load, you can increase the distance to the wall - 12 pieces.

If, under the same conditions, the lag step is calculated for a floor made of boards with a thickness of 50 mm, then the estimated number of beams x with a distance between them of 1000 mm will be

5000 - 80x - 1000 (x-1) - 100, x = 3.6 beams.

We accept a whole number of 4 pieces (here it is undesirable to reduce their number).

Calculation 2

Initial data - support on wooden floor beams, located with a step of 1000 mm, the same dimensions and configuration of the room, the same finish.

Determine how far the logs should be laid under the plywood flooring. According to the table for plywood with a thickness of 20 mm, the lag step is 300 mm, while the distance between the beams is 1000 mm. It is first necessary to place the logs according to the number of beams with attachment to their side side and alignment, then place the beams across the primary logs with a step of 300 mm.

Since the beams are 3000 mm long, the primary logs must also be 3000 mm long and have a cross section of at least 200x150 mm. For a five-meter room, such logs (according to the previous calculation) will require 4 logs (or five, depending on the position of the beams). The placement of secondary supports goes along a span with a length of 5000 mm, with a distance of 300 mm and a beam width of 150 (section 200x150 mm) they will be required


3000 - 150x - 300 (x-1) - 100, x = 5.3 pieces.

Taking into account the rounding, the required number of five-meter (composite) lags is 5 pieces.

For a floorboard with a thickness of 50 mm, the required distance between the joists is 1000 mm, which is equal to the pitch between the beams. Therefore, the number of lags corresponds to the number of beams (4 or 5 pieces).

In both cases, a correction must be made for the increased floor load. Depending on the operating conditions, you can increase the cross-section of the beams / decrease the distance between them / apply a complex correction (increase the cross-section and decrease the distance between the logs under the boards).

If we accept an increase in the cross-section, then in both cases the nearest higher value should be taken according to the table, that is, 220x180 mm (primary and secondary for cross-decking) and 180x100 mm for decking under the boards. Correction for changing the distance of the log under the floor (step) leads to an increase in the number of bars. For the first calculation, the number of primary lags will not change, but for the secondary ones, the number will be (with a reduced step of 250 mm)

3000 - 150x - 250 (x-1) - 100, x = 6.

When attaching the lag to the beams, the step does not change, therefore, this method of making corrections is not applicable.

What insulation is best for the floor of a frame house?

Insulation of the floor in a frame house can be different depending on the purpose of a particular room. As a heater in accordance with GOST (state standard), you can use:

  • expanded polystyrene;
  • Styrofoam;
  • mineral wool;
  • ecowool;
  • penofol;
  • penoplex;
  • expanded clay and other types of insulation.

The thickness of the insulation for the floor of a frame house in central Russia is chosen 200 mm. For more northern areas - 300 mm.

To insulate the floor of a frame house, you need to choose only high-quality insulation. Otherwise, you can get insufficient insulation, which will lead to unnecessary costs for heating the premises.

Thermal insulation with foam or expanded polystyrene is the best and simplest solution. It is actively used in budget construction. The only condition is the use of good waterproofing so that the foam does not disintegrate into individual elements. With temperature changes, the foam can still form cracks. This is its main drawback.

To prevent such unpleasant moments, you need to lay the sheets "in tightness" so that the sheets are tightly clamped between the lags. This work should be done by knowledgeable professionals.

Laying foam between floor joists
Laying foam between the floor joists "in tightness".

Mineral wool can be used with great success for insulation. It has high thermal protection, is not flammable, but it is also afraid of moisture. Waterproofing in this case must also be of high quality. It is better to use mineral wool in the form of mats than in the form of a roll, because the mats are denser. It is obligatory to overlap the gaps between the mats.

If you choose a thickness of insulation of 150 mm, then it is advisable to lay a layer with a thickness of 100 mm and cover the slots with another layer, 50 mm thick.

Ecowool is an analogue of glass wool, but more environmentally friendly, although many experts question this fact. Ecowool is sprayed using special equipment and forms a layer of seamless insulation. Ecowool retains heat better than mineral wool, but it is more expensive.

Insulation of the floor with penoplex, which is a type of polystyrene, but more reliable in strength and has a higher degree of thermal protection, will cost much more.

Warming a frame house with expanded clay is quite possible. Expanded clay is cheap, fire resistant, and also environmentally friendly. It is quite possible to insulate the floor with expanded clay yourself, without resorting to the help of a construction team. True, expanded clay is inferior in thermal conductivity to the materials listed above.

When insulating the floor with expanded clay, it is imperative to use waterproofing, because expanded clay absorbs moisture well. A layer of expanded clay is laid on the waterproofing, on top of which a leveling screed is made, then another layer of waterproofing is laid.

In principle, absolutely any insulation material can be used for floor insulation. In the simplest cases, it can be sawdust. As a rule, the better the quality of the material, the higher its price. Each owner chooses for himself which heat insulator to choose.

Online calculators

An online calculator can be used to simplify calculations. However, to enter data into it, it is necessary to first determine the section of the timber, the thickness of the flooring and what step of the floor lag is adopted.

Note: This calculator distinguishes between subfloor and floorboard. This refers to a two-layer plank flooring, in which first the subfloor boards are laid with an interval of 2 cm (to compensate for the temperature and humidity deformation), and then a floorboard is created from the floorboards and they undergo finishing (varnishing, painting).

Wooden floor on the ground on logs

Another option for a wooden floor along the logs in a private house is shown in the following figure:

Ventilation of the wooden floor on the joists

Here, in contrast to the first option, the floor level is raised to the required height by filling the basement with compacted soil.

Ventilation of the floor is carried out due to the movement of air under the action of the draft of the ventilation duct.

Warm air is taken from the room and through the ventilation holes in the baseboards and the gap between the sub-floor and the wall enters the space between the joists. Then the air enters the ventilation duct.

Read: Calculation of natural ventilation of the underground space.

To ensure ventilation of the underfloor space, skirting boards with holes are used or they provide for the installation of skirting boards with a gap between them and the walls.

In order for the air to move more or less evenly under the entire surface of the floor, the gap for the passage of air is made of different widths - the further from the ventilation duct, the wider the gap (2 cm). Near the ventilation duct, holes in the baseboards and the gaps between the wall and the floor are not made (or the gap is sealed with tape).

It is important to understand that in this ventilation option, unlike the first, the underfloor space is inside the heat-shielding shell of the house, and must be warm. The outer shell of the subfloor must have a resistance to heat transfer not less than the wall of the house. Otherwise, the flow of warm air from the room can lead to the formation of condensation on the parts of the subfloor.

Make a layer of bulk soil thicker than 600 mm. Not recommended. Pour soil and carefully tamp in layers no more than 200 mm thick. It is still not possible to compact the bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can result in too much and uneven floor settlement.

The waterproofing film is laid on an equalizing layer of sand with a thickness of at least 30 mm. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The adjoining of the film to the walls is necessarily connected to the waterproofing of the wall and is also sealed.

The thermal insulation is placed on top of the waterproofing.

In this option, it is better to use polymer insulation boards - polystyrene (expanded polystyrene). The thickness of the insulation is enough 50-100 mm, since the temperature of the soil under the house is always positive.

If the walls and basement of the house are not insulated, then along the outer walls for a width of at least 800 mm. a thicker layer of insulation should be laid, 150 - 200 mm.

At a house with multilayer outer walls with insulation outside, to exclude a cold bridge bypassing the insulation of the walls and floor,the basement is insulated from the outside without fail

(see the figure in the first part of the article).

The floor logs lie on low pads of bricks or concrete blocks.

If boards of extruded polystyrene foam (XPS, penoplex, etc.) are used as thermal insulation, then the logs can be laid on linings cut from these boards.

Between the thermal insulation and the wooden joists of the floor, a gap of 3-5 cm should be provided for free air movement.

According to building regulations, there is one limitation on flooring. Since the space under the floor is ventilated through the exhaust duct of natural ventilation, it is forbidden to make the final floor covering from combustible materials: from boards, parquet boards and shields, etc. Or, under them, a non-combustible base should be provided, for example, a prefabricated screed made of gypsum plasterboard, gypsum fiber sheets or a subfloor made of cement particle boards.

Read: "Prefabricated dry floor screed made of gypsum plasterboard, gypsum fiber sheets or cement particle boards"

In this version, the logs and other floor elements are in better humidity conditions than in the first case.

In this design, the ventilation duct serves to ventilate not only the subfloor, but also the premises of the house. What needs to be done to save the heat emitted by the ventilation system, read here.

What are lags for?

Lags in a frame house

Lags are called bars that are laid on a previously prepared base. Such a base can be a concrete slab, posts or beams.

Logs are made from various types of wood. In dry rooms with low traffic, a spruce or pine timber is placed. If there is damp soil under the ceiling or the operation of the room is associated with dampness, then it is better to put a larch bar.

Regardless of the base on which the lathing will be located, you need to use waterproofing. Roofing material is best suited for this. Before installation, the wood must be well dried and treated with an antiseptic.

In some cases, a crate made of metal, plastic or reinforced concrete posts is arranged under the finishing cladding.


What decision to make, to choose a developer, focusing on their financial capabilities and skill.

Laying floors on logs provides the following advantages:

    An increase in the thickness of the floor, which will reduce its thermal conductivity, will improve the sound insulation characteristics. Between the logs, you can place communications, lay heat-insulating material. This will have a positive effect on the comfort and interior of the room. Creation of a uniform load on the subfloor, which will increase its service life. Obtaining a perfectly flat base for the finishing coat.

In the absence of a bar, the logs can be made independently from the boards. Several lamellas are glued together and tightened with screws. Such products are distinguished by their increased strength and the absence of deformation during changes in humidity.

Thermal insulation of the floor with mineral wool

Minvata is most often used to insulate a wooden floor in a private house. It does not burn, easily transfers aggressive chemical substances, has good noise and heat insulation. The disadvantages include only low strength.

Read more: Centrifugal fan: design and operating parameters

Mineral wool should not be in contact with water. That is why waterproofing must be of particularly high quality. Many people refuse such insulation because of its non-environmental friendliness.

Base insulation scheme with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a flexible soft board. They are cut into the desired elements, and this is done easily. The marking is applied with blue stripes on the hard side. During installation, it is worth making sure that these stripes look up. Also, do not forget that the material for insulation is in one layer.

Among all heat-insulating materials, the most demanded among consumers is mineral wool. It is offered on the market in several varieties: fireplace, glass, slag.Its main plus is absolute incombustibility. It also has other advantages: fire resistance, chemical resistance. We also note the high properties in terms of sound and heat insulation, which are inherent in this material.

Minuses

Note that this insulation also has its drawbacks. Its main disadvantage is weak mechanical strength and low vapor permeability. This material absorbs moisture well. When it is humidified, it loses its thermal insulation characteristics and does not provide effective insulation. Therefore, when working on insulation using this material, they arrange protection from moisture in the form of a vapor barrier layer. You should also know that mineral wool is a material that is not absolutely safe for human health.

Manufacturers produce it in the form of slabs and flexible mats. Hydrophobized mineral wool is used as a base for the manufacture of solid slabs. The blue stripe on the slab insulation indicates the hard side. When this material is laid on the floor surface, it is necessary that the side with the marking is facing up. The main application of mineral wool slabs is to insulate a wooden floor. When carrying out work, the insulation is laid in one layer.

Calculating the floor from boards

Beam for lags

Before laying the plank floor, you need to decide on the configuration of the timber for the log.

The parameters of the longitudinal supports depend on the thickness of the topcoat and the length of the purlin between the support points. They are considered to be beams and supports that are placed under the logs. The more such supports, the thinner the timber will be.

When carrying out calculations, one should adhere to the following ratio of the span length and the section of the bar:

    200 cm - 100x50 mm; 300 cm - 150x75 mm; 400 cm - 180x100 mm; 500 cm - 200x150 mm; 600 cm - 220x175 mm.

The aspect ratio of the laid lags should be 1: 1.5. Position the beam so that its longer sides are vertical.

An equally important indicator of the strength of the finished floor is the interval between the lags. It must be such that the finished coating does not sag under a weight of 300 kg / m².

Such a norm is established for residential premises. With a board thickness of 20 mm, the step between the lags will be 30 cm.When the thickness of the finish coat increases for every 5 mm, the distance increases by 10 cm.

Before laying a floor from a bar and slats, you need to take into account the following rules:

There should be a small gap of 3-5 mm between the insulation and the topcoat. It is necessary for ventilation of the wood. The edges of the boards should be at a distance of 3-6 mm from the walls.

This is necessary to expand the coverage when it swells from high humidity. When carrying out installation, it is advisable to place supports under the timber every 100-150 cm. They can be made from bricks or lumber scraps. Small differences in height are compensated by pieces of roofing material.

When choosing a material for a lag, it is necessary to purchase a bar with a safety margin. Such a measure will allow not to limit the weight of interior items.

Floor on logs on intermediate walls

Floor on logs on intermediate walls

In modern floor structures, log beams are located at a small distance from each other, which allows the use of lumber of a smaller section, and hence the cost, and it is also convenient to place insulation plates.

Instead of brick posts, the logs can be advantageous to lean on intermediate walls laid across the log with an interval of about 2 m.Bricks or blocks in the wall are laid in a honeycomb method half-brick thick, leaving increased gaps of 1/4 brick in the vertical seams for ventilation of the underground space. If the wall has a height of more than 0.4 m, then at least every 2 m of the length of the wall, pilasters are laid out - pillars with a thickness of brick, to increase the stability of the wall.

If the lag step is not more than 600 mm. and a span of less than 2 m, then the section of a wooden log is enough to have 100x50 mm.

Creating a base for plywood

Despite the fact that this material is highly durable, its resistance to bending and pressure is much lower than that of solid wood.

Based on this, the distance between the lags when building a plywood floor is taken less than when working with boards. Typically, plywood is used to create the subfloor. Linoleum, carpets and rugs, parquet and engineered board are laid on the floor.

For work, you should purchase plates with a thickness of at least 12 mm. If the coating is two-layer, then you can limit yourself to 8 mm plywood.

When designing the parameters of the crate, one should be guided by the dimensions of the plywood. In hardware stores, you can purchase sheets in the 1525x1525 mm and 1220x2440 mm format.

When working with slabs of 1525x1525 mm, the logs are laid in 50 cm increments. If the coating is made in a single layer, then the interval should be reduced to 38 cm. After laying the logs, the crossbars are fixed between them at the same distance.

If the choice is made in favor of a material with a format of 1220x2440 mm, then a frame is made with a side of 40 cm.That is, in all cases, the step of the distance between the logs is a multiple of the dimensions of the plywood. This is done so that the edges of the sheets are on the beam, and not in a suspended state.

Since the plywood, after fixing on the frame, will be covered with a topcoat, plates with one-sided grinding should be bought. To create the first layer, it is advisable to purchase unpolished plywood. When carrying out construction in rooms with high humidity, the choice should be made in favor of a waterproof material.

Plates are stacked in a checkerboard pattern. Before screwing in them, you need to make holes for self-tapping screws and chamfer them.

This is to prevent the plywood from cracking and the heads of the screws to be sunk into the subfloor. It is necessary to leave a technological gap with a width of 2-3 mm between the sheets of material. After installation, it is sealed with mastic.

In order for the floor covering to serve for a long time and to be durable, the floorboards do not creak or bend underfoot, you must first correctly calculate all the design parameters, including at what distance to lay the floor logs. The correctness of this calculation will determine not only the durability of the floor covering, but also the amount of material used for it, and hence the cost of the work.

Floor insulation material

The construction market offers a wide range of materials for floor insulation. They differ in cost, installation technology, optimal operating conditions, etc.

Mineral wool for floor insulation

Materials used for floor insulation in a wooden house from below:

  • mineral wool;
  • ceramisite;
  • penofol;
  • polystyrene or expanded polystyrene;
  • sawdust;
  • penoplex;
  • ecowool.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. The choice of it as insulation depends on the characteristics of the house, the financial capabilities of the owner and the type of flooring.

Penoplex is a common foamed polymer. It is distinguished by high strength, ability to keep its shape well. For the production of foam, the extrusion method is used. This allows for a strong structure with a large number of small cells inside for better heat transfer. Moisture does not penetrate inside the holes, so the material does not need additional waterproofing.

Penoplex does not need additional waterproofing

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is used most often as a heater. It is lightweight, does not burn, and has a high degree of protection against extraneous sounds.

There are three types of this material:

  • glass;
  • slag;
  • stone.

You can use rolled mineral wool for floor insulation

This material is produced in the form of a dense plate or flexible mat. For ease of installation, the plates are marked with a blue stripe. This allows the sheets to be positioned in the desired direction.

The big disadvantage of this material is the ability to absorb moisture. Therefore, when insulating the floor in a private house with your own hands, you need to conduct a good vapor barrier.

Additional insulation of pipes with mineral wool insulation

Expanded clay is a small round porous balls of shale or clay. They are obtained by firing materials in a furnace at a high temperature. Expanded clay is considered a safe and environmentally friendly material. Among its advantages are:

  • high sound insulation;
  • resistance to low temperatures;
  • environmental safety for humans.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor review of the technology of thermal insulation work

A noticeable disadvantage of this material is its own weight seal. Expanded clay balls are pressed together. This leads to an increase in the weight of the substance and a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Expanded clay is often used to insulate a wooden floor.

Sawdust is a waste product of the woodworking industry. They have good steam and sound insulation characteristics, retain heat, and are environmentally friendly for humans. Sawdust is of low cost. The resulting thermal effect is not worse than that of expensive materials. Thanks to the cement component, they are also well suited for floor insulation in a ground floor apartment. Subsequently, such a screed can be used for laying laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc.

Before use, the sawdust is subjected to a special treatment. This prevents the appearance of rodents and beetles in them. After that, they are mixed with cement and water and evenly applied over the entire area of ​​the flooring.

Sawdust is a very cheap material for floor insulation.

Sawdust is ideal for warming floors on the ground, especially if the building does not have a solid and solid foundation.

Floor insulation with expanded polystyrene is popular. Most often, this material is called foam. The advantages of this insulation:

  • low vapor and sound permeability;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • resistant to external factors and chemicals;
  • does not lose its properties for a long time;
  • easy to install.

Polyfoam is not afraid of fire and exposure to high temperatures

A significant disadvantage of foam is its susceptibility to moisture. He can absorb it into himself. This negatively affects the basic performance characteristics. He is also afraid of the effects of fire and high temperatures. But a simple and inexpensive technology for insulating floors with polystyrene is its significant advantage. This is what, in most cases, the owner of the house is guided by.

Ecowool

Polyurethane foam (ecowool) is a great way to solve the problem of floor insulation in an apartment on the ground floor and in a private house (dacha). This material is blown into the free space using a compressor. In this way, it evenly fills all the voids. Small particles that make up ecowool provide excellent vapor barrier.

After hardening, a solid, even layer is obtained. It has excellent load bearing capacity. Light weight does not increase the weight of the structure. The service life of this insulation is more than 20 years.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor with ecowool

A significant disadvantage of ecowool is the need to use special industrial equipment.

The combination of polyethylene foam and a thin layer of aluminum foil is called penofol. It is sold as a rolled roll. The thickness of the seal is from 3 to 10 mm. Penofol retains heat well, is environmentally friendly, and has high sound insulation.

Penofol retains heat well

The big disadvantage of this material is exposure to moisture due to the presence of aluminum foil in the composition. Another disadvantage is that penofol does not differ in long-term operation. After five years, it is necessary to re-insulate.

The modern market offers a wide range of materials suitable for insulating a wooden floor on logs.You can find the properties of the most commonly used heaters in the following table.

Table. Popular heaters

Heat insulating materialBasic properties
SawdustOne of the most budgetary, and sometimes completely free thermal insulation material. It is characterized by good thermal insulation properties, helps to normalize the level of humidity inside the floor structure. The main disadvantage of sawdust is its poor resistance to the effects of various kinds of insects, fungi and other harmful microorganisms. In addition to this, the material supports combustion, which is also a big disadvantage.
Mineral wool insulationMaterials based on mineral wool are characterized by high thermal insulation properties and do not support combustion. Along with this, the material does not tolerate contact with moisture - it swells under the influence of water and loses its original performance characteristics. If mineral wool is used for insulation, waterproofing will need to be equipped on both sides of the material.
Expanded clayA relatively inexpensive and easy-to-arrange material with good thermal insulation characteristics. For insulation, it is recommended to use granules of different sizes - so the backfill will turn out to be denser.
StyrofoamOne of the most popular insulation materials. It is sold at a relatively affordable cost, provides highly effective insulation, is not afraid of contact with moisture, but supports combustion, while releasing substances that are unsafe for human health. In addition, the foam attracts rodents, "encounters" with which do not in the best way affect the service life of the material.
  • Bulk;
  • Bulk;
  • Roll;
  • Tiled (block);
  • Sprayable.

Various types and types of insulation for a wooden floor (bulk, spray, roll, block)

For insulation, you can choose:

  1. Styrofoam;
  2. Penoplex;
  3. Expanded clay;
  4. Glass wool;
  5. Cork material;
  6. Reflective insulation (penofol);
  7. Cellulose;
  8. Gypsum fiber;
  9. Fiberglass;
  10. Foam glass;
  11. Polyurethane foam.
  • Drill with various drills;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Saw;
  • Plane;
  • Electric jigsaw;
  • Construction mixer.

Read more: Antimagnetic seal on the water meter what it looks like - Heating

What should be considered when calculating?

When performing the calculation, the following factors are taken into account:

    the thickness of the flooring material (chipboard, boards, etc.); the approximate pitch between the floor logs; the estimated specific maximum load on the floor.

All these parameters will determine the cross-section of boards, beams and other lumber used for arranging the floor.

When calculating what distance should be between the floor logs, it should be remembered that the extreme logs cannot be located further than 30 millimeters from the walls, it is necessary to make a correction for this in the calculations.

As a result of calculations, usually not an integer number is obtained, but it should always be rounded up so that the real number of lags does not turn out to be less than the calculated one. Otherwise, the strength of the floor structure may not be sufficient, especially when you consider that the savings will be quite small compared to the likely risk.

The cheapest floor logs can be found on sawmills, followed by construction online stores.

When it comes to installing the floor, it is not advisable to save too much.

The lags must have not only a suitable cross-section, but also sufficient density. If you make the lag step for the floor of the boards too large, then the boards will begin to bend, "play". Similarly, if the distance between the lags for the OSB floor is made more than permissible, then the plates will begin to crumble and crack.

An example of calculating the distance between floor joists

The distance between the joists of the floor under the board can be relatively large, since thick board is a stronger material than, for example, thin plywood. Accordingly, for thinner finishing materials, more frequent lagging will be required.

For clarity, consider an example of a floor arrangement with the following data:

    a room of 12 meters in length; the use of a beam of 100x180 mm for logs; the use of 30 mm boards as a topcoat.

Table of the distance between the floor joists under the board:

According to the table above, for a 30 mm board, the optimal distance between the floor joists should be 50 cm.

Let's designate the total number of beams by the letter "k". Then the total width of all logs will be (100 mm * k). The distance between the wall and the extreme beams will be 30 mm. Accordingly, the step between adjacent logs will be (k - 1). The distance between all elements will be (0.5 * (k - 1)).

The calculation of the distance between the floor joists begins with determining the step between the beams according to the following equation:

length of the room = total width of the beams + the sum of the distances between the beams + indents from the walls

I.e,

12 m = 100 mm * k + 0.5 * (k - 1) m + 30 mm * 2

Distance between lags for osb floor

It is important to bring the equation to a unified system of calculation. As a result, we get:

12 m = 0.1 m * k + 0.5 * (k - 1) + 0.03 * 2

Remembering the school algebra course, we solve the equation:

The distance between the lags of the floor under the board

12 = 0.1 * k + 0.5 * k - 0.5 + 0.06; 12 + 0.5 - 0.06 = 0.1 * k + 0.5 * k; 12.44 = 0, 6 * k;

k = 20.7 pcs.

Since the number of beams can only be an integer, it is rounded up, that is, 21 bars are required.

The sum of all the intervals between the lags will be:

12 - 21 * 0.1 - 0.06 = 9.84 m

Step between floor lags

It is necessary to divide the resulting amount by the number of intervals, and we get the distance between adjacent lags:

9.84 / (21 - 1) = 0.492 m

Thus, we were able to establish the distance through which to lay the logs for the floor in this example - 0.492 m or 49.2 cm.

Boilers

Ovens

Plastic windows